If you think literally everyone is in Amalfi Coast this summer, you are correct. I was one of them and I both loved and hated it at the same time.
For the record, summer is HIGH season, which means lots of crowds and lots of heat. I only went during high season because it was after a work trip, and would actually suggest not going in peak summer, and waiting for shoulder season (just before or after it) instead.
But, for those of you who dream of a trendy, posh, fabulous (yet stressful) European Summer, here is my easiest Amalfi Coast itinerary for your “European Summer” dreams!
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When to Go to Amalfi Coast
If you want to go when everyone goes, the months to do it are July and August. Those are the main summer months, the highest of the season, and when the who’s-who, plus everyone else will be there.
For those who prefer less crowds and don’t really care who else is there, go in shoulder season or low season. Amalfi Coast doesn’t get super super cold, but if you’re going to enjoy the warm weather, aim for March-May or September-November.
Where to Fly Into to Get to Amalfi Coast
The fastest way to get to Amalfi Coast is to fly into Naples Airport. There are smaller airports even closer, but this is the main international one and it’s not too far away.
To find the cheapest flights, I always use Skyscanner, and yes I take my chances with third party websites.
That being said, keep in mind that the low fare airlines in Europe are notorious for losing luggage and having delays and cancellations! Be sure you get travel insurance for your trip! I recommend World Nomads for lowest prices.
How to Get to Amalfi Coast
If you fly into Naples Airport, you have several options to get to the Amalfi Coast.
- Rent a Car: If you’re a good driver, and brave, rent a car to have the most freedom. Keep in mind the roads are extremely windey, narrow, and locals drive like they’re in a racecar game. I rented a car with Galdieri Rent through DoYouItaly. I’d also suggest just paying extra for the damage insurance, I’m not joking when I say the roads are narrow and people drive extremely close to you!
- Take the Bus: Although they are often crowded, the SITA buses run frequently and literally everywhere, plus are extremely cheap. You can take a Sita bus from the airport to your destination in Amalfi Coast easily, just plug it into google maps and see where the closest bus stop is to get off at. If you see a kiosk selling tickets, get them at the airport, otherwise you can usually pay onboard.
- Take the Ferry: If you don’t feel like driving, or getting car sick on the bus, there’s also ferries from Naples to Positano or Amalfi! They’re the second cheapest option at around $30 per ticket and only 1.5 hours. From there you can take the bus to your accommodation.
Where to Stay if You’re on a BUDGET
As you can probably imagine, staying on the actual Amalfi Coast isn’t cheap; namely in Positano and Amalfi. I stayed farther out and was able to find hotels around $150-200/night in high season. Buses ran frequently in the areas I stayed in as well, even though we had a car and just drove.
My favorite area to stay in that wasn’t too expensive was Maori. It’s only about a 30-45 minute drive to Amalfi and super chill and beautiful. There are several beach clubs there that aren’t crowded and rent chairs with umbrellas for $15 (in Positano it’s minimum $35 and up).
The other area we found an affordable place in was called Agerola. It’s a quaint little town up the mountains, best known for being the starting point of the famous “Pathway of the Gods” hike. Although it was cute and offered amazing views when going up or down from it, doing the 30 minute drive just to get up or down from it was stressful, especially at night. Buses do run there though!
If you don’t mind the trek, I’d recommend Nido Verde, which is family run and has two very cute little boys living there!
Where to Stay if You’re NOT on a Budget
If you’re trying to ball out and drop dollars like the world is ending tomorrow, here are the most famous and beautiful hotels in the Amalfi Coast:
La Pergola Amalfi: I did a collaboration here with just dinner and lemon experience since they were completely booked, but I really wish I knew about it sooner! It’s only about $200 per night during high season, and it’s located close to the actual coast, in between Amalfi and Positano! The owner/chef is Daniele (tell him I said hi) and his meals are freaking phenomenal! Definitely ask to do the Lemon Experience there as well!
Here’s some of the top fancy ones in Positano for minimum $1300 per night (lol):
Towns That Make Up The Amalfi Coast
Just so you’re not confused, there are several towns that make up the Amalfi Coast. And then one of them is actually Called Amalfi. So Amalfi the town is part of the Amalfi Coast, and so is Positano.
The main towns are Amalfi, Positano, Praianno, Maori, Menori, and Atrani. There are several others but those are the main ones and below are the most popular ones!
Best Things to do in Amalfi (the town)
I personally didn’t care much for the actual town of Amalfi. It’s pretty small, with one of the smallest beaches I saw, and right next to it is the chaotic port where all the ferries and boat tours constantly are leaving and arriving from.
There’s some nice restaurants, and even more if you walk up away from the water. Worth it to see so you can see it, but I wouldn’t schedule to spend more than a day there.
You can hop on a boat tour of the coast from Amalfi or Positano, which I’d highly recommend!
Best Things to do in Praianno
Praianno is a little hidden gem in between Amalfi and Positano. It also has a very small beach cove, so getting a chair and umbrella is unlikely unless you reserve in advance. Praianno also has one of the local popular “beach clubs” called Il Pirata. It’s not a beach club like you may think (there’s no DJ or dancing), but it does offer reasonably priced food and drinks with stunning views!
Be sure to also to go by Donna Clelia! It was the very first home in Praianno and the family made it into a bar and accommodation. Tell Angelo the bartender that Alyssa the blogger from LA said hi 😉 His mom also designs fashion and has a shop next door to it! You can find my linen two piece ensemble there, and also at her shop in Positano.
Best Things to do in Positano
Positano definitely needs a minimum of two days to explore and enjoy. I’ll admit; I was extremely skeptical about what all the hype was about, but as soon as we turned a corner and I caught a glimpse of it, I was like, “Oh, that’s why”.
It’s the largest of the towns, and it starts at the top of the mountain and continues all the way down to the shore. You’ll find tons and tons of restaurants, cute shops, artwork, and more throughout it, and if you’re lucky, even an affordable hotel.
At the shore, there are several places where you can rent a beach chair with umbrella, again starting at $35. If you want to be on the safe side, make a reservation in advance.
If you’re on a budget and want to do Positano in a day for $25 or less, check out this post!
However if you’re not on a budget, I’d highly suggest eating at Chez Black (I had the sea urchin pasta and loved it) and also Rada Beach Restaurant. At Rada Beach the gnocchi with tomato sauce and mozzarella was incredible! Rada also has a beach club, but the cover is $100+.
For those renting a car and driving: Parking is somehow magically always available in the several parking lots. It’s around $8 an hour, but the guys valet it for you and it makes it super easy and stressfree! Otherwise you can try to find street parking higher up for around $3/hour, then hike all the way down and back up.
My Top Tips for the Amalfi Coast During European Summer
Aside from making sure you’re mentally prepared for high levels of heat and humans, here’s some of my other travel tips for Amalfi Coast during European Summer:
- If you’re driving, be patient! Italian drivers are actually really pro, but be careful of the fellow tourists. Also always pull your side view mirrors in when you park.
- Book as much as you can in advance. Restaurants fill up and some won’t let you in without a rez (although we didn’t really have this problem)
- Try the anchovie pasta! My favorite was in Maori.
- Rent a boat for the day and go along the coast; you’ll get all the token views without all the crowds plus…you’ll be on a boat!
- If you love Aperol Spritz…great, they are everywhere. But my favorite drink was the Lemon Spritz, which is lemoncello and prosecco.
- Pack light and shop in Positano. My favorite store that’s actually super cheap (and in all of the towns) is Antica Sartoria. Just look for a shop that looks like it would be my closet.
- Spend a few days in Capri instead of doing a day trip. Blog post on that coming soon!
- In general, be patient, don’t get annoyed, don’t complain, just embrace the chaos and beautiful sights!
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xx, Alyssa
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