Ultimate Turkmenistan Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know!

Welcome to the ultimate Turkmenistan travel guide, which I can assure you is one of the most helpful ones you’ll find, even though it might be slightly confusing to take in all of the different information!

Turkmenistan is one of the most mysterious, bizarre, and extreme countries that I’ve traveled solo to, out of 145 so far. From its all-white marble capital to a crater that’s been burning for over 50 years, this Central Asian nation defies expectations at every turn. But traveling here isn’t as simple as booking a flight and showing up. No, no. You have to be invited and basically escorted by a guide. But that was all a lot easier than it sounds!

Here’s everything you need to know to plan your trip to one of the world’s most closed-off countries.

Where Is Turkmenistan?

Turkmenistan is located in Central Asia, bordered by Kazakhstan to the northwest, Uzbekistan to the north and east, Afghanistan to the southeast, Iran to the south, and the Caspian Sea to the west. It’s the second-largest country in Central Asia and is largely covered by the Karakum Desert.

The capital, Ashgabat, sits near the southern border with Iran and serves as the country’s political, cultural, and economic center.

Why Is It So Hard to Go There?

Turkmenistan is one of the most isolated countries in the world, often compared to North Korea in terms of government control and restrictions on tourism. The country has strict visa requirements which require a Letter of Invitation, limited infrastructure for independent travel, and a government that tightly controls who enters and what they do while there.

You cannot simply arrive and explore on your own—all tourists must be accompanied by an official guide and follow a pre-approved itinerary. This makes spontaneous travel impossible and adds layers of bureaucracy to the planning process.

Why is it like this? Well, because it’s an authoritarian country, and the government is allowed to control what is said and done. So in that aspect, it does make it similar to North Korea. However I did not notice any cameras spying on people all over the place.

Main Government Rules and Restrictions

Here are the key rules and restrictions in Turkmenistan that you need to know:

• Mandatory Tour Guide: All tourists must travel with an officially registered tour company and guide. Independent travel is not permitted.
• Pre-Approved Itinerary: Your itinerary must be submitted and approved in advance. You cannot deviate from it without permission. (I had to get approval to even change the restaurant we went to dinner at).
• Social Media Ban: Social media platforms, WhatsApp, and SMS services are officially banned, though many locals use VPNs to bypass restrictions. Instead, locals have their own messaging app.
• Photography Restrictions: You’re not allowed photographing government buildings, military installations, airports, and police. Always ask your guide before taking photos in sensitive areas, and if you don’t know what it is, don’t worry, they’ll yell at you anyway to put the camera down.
• White Car Rule (Ashgabat): All vehicles in Ashgabat must be white (or light gold/silver). This is strictly enforced and also punishable!
• White Buildings Rule (Ashgabat): All buildings in Ashgabat must also be white in order to maintain the previous president’s goal of having a pristine and futuristic city, and also a Guiness Book of World Records award. 
• Dress Modestly: While not as strict as some Middle Eastern countries, modest dress is recommended, especially for women. Shocking, I know.

How to Get a Letter of Invitation

To obtain a Turkmenistan visa, you first need a Letter of Invitation (LOI), which can only be issued by a registered tour company in Turkmenistan. Here’s the process:

1. Book a Tour: Contact a tour company that operates in Turkmenistan and book your trip.
2. Provide Passport Details: Submit a copy of your passport and your travel dates.
3. Wait for the LOI: The tour company will apply for your LOI through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. This typically takes 2-4 weeks, so be sure to do it in advance!
4. Apply for Your Visa: Once you receive the LOI, you can apply for a tourist visa at a Turkmenistan embassy or consulate, or obtain a visa on arrival at Ashgabat International Airport (if arriving by air), or by land border (one of the most difficult I’ve experienced!)

Important: The LOI is tied to your specific dates and itinerary. If your plans change, you’ll need a new LOI.

What are the Visa Fees for Turkmenistan

I entered through the northern land-border, which I’ve probaly already said multiple times but will say again, is one of the most tedious in the world. It took two hours and there were only around twenty people there trying to cross. I heard that the process at the airport in Ashgabat is much easier and faster, but unfortunately, it’s a lot more expensive to fly into Ashgabat than it was for Urgench in Uzbekistan!

Visa fees for Turkmenistan, and the process:

• Primary Visa Fee: $100-150 depending on citizenship
• Migration tax: $14
• Covid test: $35 (yes, they’re still doing that)
• I’m not going to bother explaining the process because your guide will do it for you, just remember that you can only pay in USD cash.

IMPORTANT NOTE: You can ONLY PAY in USD Cash, so bring plenty of it and bring newer undamaged bills! Bring some smaller bills as well to try to give exact amounts as they have a hard time giving change back and it will make the process take longer!

What Tour Company to Use 

Like I said, it took me a long time to find a tour company who would give me a decent price for just one person (still around $750 for only 2 days and 2 nights). They were also very communicative and helpful, so I’d definitely recommend them! They also easily handled everything from the LOI to the guide and transportation, and the guide met me at the land border crossing and did literally everything for me. Plus she was a gen Z woman, so was super fun to hang out with.

Here’s the thing though, they have offered me a small commission if I refer people to them, but they don’t have an affiliate link, and I unfortunately know that most people forget to mention me, or the tour companies don’t tell me about the referral. 

Soooo not to be a gatekeeper, but if you’d like their contact information, email me at info@mylifesamovie.com and I’ll connect you!

Pricing for a 3 day 2 night Turkmenistan tour is:

• 1 Person: $730
• 2 People: $490/p
• 3 People: $430/p
• 4 People or more: $400/p

If you don’t feel like emailing me or going with the tour I used, you can just book a random on online, but it may be difficult if you’re a solo traveler! Here’s a Turkmenistan tour you can book online that has high ratings!

How Bizarre Is This: Keeping up with Turkmenistan’s strict control policies, my tour guides were not allowed to have my Whatsapp number or social media information and were not allowed to contact me directly! The whole time before and during my tour, I was in contact with someone from their office via text, who I never met!

The Basic 3 Day 2 Night Turkmenistan Tour

Since Turkmenistan strictly regulates travel and tourism, they don’t really have a ton of tour itinerary options. There’s also not a ton of things to see besides Ashgabat and the Door to Hell. Well, at least that we’re allowed to go to. I asked if I could go see the Caspian Sea area and got a hard no from my guide!

Basic 3 Day Turkmenistan Itinerary:

Day 1: Arrive in Ashgabat. City tour including the Independence Monument, Arch of Neutrality, Turkmenistan Tower, the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel at Alem Cultural Center, Turkmenbashi Mosque, and the massive shopping malls.

Day 2: Full-day excursion to the Darvaza Gas Crater (Door to Hell). Drive 5 hours north through the desert, spend time at the crater, and either camp overnight in yurts or return to Ashgabat (like I did!).

Day 3: Depart out of Ashgabat via air, or drive 5 hours to cross the land border into Uzbekistan

You’ll likely stay at one of the over-the-top hotels like I did (photo below at the “Wedding Palace” hotel), and then in a basic yurt for the Door to Hell.

Basic Turkmenistan Travel Information

• Currency: Turkmenistan Manat (TMT). US dollars and euros are widely accepted, especially for tourist services. ATMs are limited, so bring cash.
• Language: Turkmen is the official language, though Russian is widely spoken, especially in cities. English is rare outside of tour guides.
• Religion: Islam is the predominant religion (around 90% of the population is Muslim), but the country is officially secular.
• Electricity: 220V, 50Hz. European-style two-pin plugs (Type C and F).
• Safety: Turkmenistan is generally very safe for tourists. Crime rates are low, and the government maintains tight control over security.
• Climate: Desert climate with extremely hot summers (up to 50°C/122°F) and cold winters. The best time to visit is spring (April-May) or fall (September-October).

Wifi, SIM Cards, Connectivity, and VPNs

If you’ve been to China, Cuba, or North Korea — expect the same kind of connectivity there as you would in Turkmenistan. Virtually non-existent or otherwise extremely difficult to fenagle. If you haven’t been there, just expect it to be difficult. And no, your home carrier’s data roaming plan will not work there.

Here’s How to Stay Connected in Turkmenistan:

• WiFi/Internet: Extremely limited and heavily censored. Most hotels offer Wi-Fi, but it’s slow and unreliable, or only available in the lobby. I did not see any restaurants or cafes offering WiFi either.
• eSIM or International Data Roaming: Neither exist or work there.
• Local SIM Cards and Hotspots: I asked many, many times for a local SIM card, and although I was told many, many times I would get one, I never did. Instead, my guide just let me use her phone’s hotspot, which worked well, except I had to keep bugging her to open her phone to use it. 
• VPNs to use: in the rare event you do get connected, you will need a VPN. Don’t bother paying a ton for the typical VPNs, they will not work in Turkmenistan. My guide had me try about six different VPNs to see which would work with my phone, and the only one that did was called “Streisand”. Download it before you arrive!

Where to Fly In and Out Of or Do Land Border Crossings

The land crossing was pretty hectic, so I’d suggest flying to Turkmenistan if it’s possible, but if it’s more convenient/cheap to do the land border crossing, just do it! It’ll at least make for a wild story!

Please use my Skyscanner affiliate link when you book your flights! It costs nothing to you and gives me a small kick back!

By Air:

• Ashgabat International Airport (ASB): The main international gateway. Turkmenistan Airlines operates flights to/from Istanbul, Dubai, Frankfurt, Moscow, and several Asian cities. You can obtain a visa on arrival if you have your LOI.

By Land:

• From Uzbekistan: The most common land crossing is at Farap/Alat (near Bukhara). This is the border I crossed, and it’s a lengthy, bureaucratic process. Expect 2-3 hours minimum.
• From Iran: The Gaudan/Bajgiran border crossing is popular for travelers doing the Silk Road route.
• From Kazakhstan: The Konye-Urgench border is less commonly used but available.

Important: Land border crossings require advance coordination with your tour company, as your guide must meet you on the Turkmen side to help you with the extremely difficult process.

Best Things to See in Ashgabat

Ok! Now that you’ve been thoroughly informed and also a bit warned about the difficulties of traveling to Turkmenistan, let’s move onto the fun stuff! The best things to see! We will start with the capital!

Ashgabat is unlike any city in the world—a gleaming white marble metropolis filled with grandiose monuments and surreal architecture, all of which is actually mostly facades! It’s like a futuristic ghost town that was seriously built to impress!

Here are the must-see sights in Ashgabat:

1. Independence Monument: A massive golden monument surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens. A popular spot for wedding photos.

2. Arch of Neutrality: A towering white arch topped with a golden statue of former president Turkmenbashi that rotates to face the sun.

3. Turkmenistan Tower: A striking observation tower offering panoramic views of the city.

4. Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center: Home to the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel (Guinness World Record holder).

5. Turkmenbashi Mosque: One of the largest mosques in Central Asia, with stunning white marble and intricate tile work.

6. National Museum of Turkmenistan: A massive museum showcasing the country’s history, culture, and archaeological treasures.

7. The Olympic Stadium: A massive stadium with a giant golden horse head, built for the Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games. Now mostly abandoned but visually striking.

8. Ashgabat’s Shopping Malls: Enormous, ultra-modern malls where locals spend their time. They’re bizarrely empty but beautifully designed.

9. Ancient Nisa: A UNESCO World Heritage Site just outside Ashgabat, featuring ruins of an ancient Parthian city.

All About the “Door to Hell” (Darvaza Gas Crater)

The Darvaza Gas Crater, known as the “Door to Hell,” is Turkmenistan’s most famous attraction—and for good reason. Here’s everything you need to know:

What Is It? The crater is a natural gas field that collapsed into an underground cavern in 1971 during a Soviet drilling operation. To prevent the spread of dangerous methane gas, scientists set the crater on fire, expecting it to burn out within a few weeks. Over 50 years later, it’s still burning.

Where Is It? Located in the Karakum Desert, about 260 kilometers (160 miles) north of Ashgabat. The journey takes approximately 5 hours by car on rough desert roads.

What to Expect: The crater is about 70 meters (230 feet) wide and 30 meters (100 feet) deep. The flames are most impressive at night when the orange glow illuminates the surrounding desert. The heat is intense, even from a distance, and the roar of the flames is otherworldly.

Accommodation: Most tour companies use traditional yurts near the crater where you can spend the night. Dinner is usually cooked over an open fire, and you’ll sleep under the stars with the glow of the crater in the distance. However, if you’re like me and prefer a bed and air conditioning, you can request to return to Ashgabat the same night (though the drive back in the dark is an adventure in itself).

Is It Really Closing? Rumor has it the the Door to Hell is closing, so of course I asked about it! My guides said that the gas is technically running out, with the flames only burning at 40% as much as they used to. Also the government has been discussing harnessing the gas into a sellable product…not that they really need more income from gas, but they also realize this is one of their main tourist attractions, so hopefully they’ll leave it. Regardless, visit it while you can!

What to Bring:

• Warm layers (desert nights are cold)
• Sturdy shoes (the terrain is rocky)
• Flashlight or headlamp
• Camera with good low-light capabilities
• Plenty of water

Pro Tip: The drive to the crater is long and bumpy. If you’re prone to motion sickness, bring medication. And if you have anxiety like me, mentally prepare yourself for a wild ride!

Ready to Experience Turkmenistan?

Want to join me in Turkmenistan next year along with the other ‘Stans of Central Asia? We’re doing an awesome custom-created group trip there October 8-20 with a group of really cool, like-minded travelers! Check out the information here and book your spot!

Want to book this trip on your own with the tour company I used? Send me an email and I’ll connect you! info@mylifesamovie.com

Turkmenistan Travel FAQ

Is Turkmenistan safe to travel to?
Yes, Turkmenistan is generally very safe for tourists. Crime rates are low and the government maintains strict control over public security. However, you must follow local rules, stay with your guide, and avoid photographing restricted sites.

Why is Turkmenistan difficult to visit?
Turkmenistan is one of the most closed-off countries in the world. Tourist travel is heavily regulated, requiring a Letter of Invitation (LOI), a pre-approved itinerary, and a mandatory guide at all times. Independent travel is not allowed.

Do I need a guide in Turkmenistan?
Yes. All tourists must travel with a registered tour guide. Your guide will accompany you everywhere, manage transportation, assist with border/airport procedures, and translate when needed.

How do I get a Letter of Invitation (LOI)?
You must book a tour with a licensed Turkmenistan tour agency. They will apply for the LOI through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Processing usually takes 2–4 weeks. Once approved, you can obtain your visa at an embassy or on arrival.

How much does the visa cost?
Visa costs vary by nationality, but expect to pay:

• Visa fee: $100–$150 USD

• Migration tax: $14 USD

• COVID test fee: $35 USD (still required)
  Payment must be made in USD cash.

Can I travel independently in Turkmenistan?
No. Travelers cannot explore on their own. You must follow your approved itinerary and stay with your guide. Even changing dinner plans requires permission.

What is the “Door to Hell” (Darvaza Gas Crater)?
The Door to Hell is a massive burning gas crater in the Karakum Desert that has been on fire since 1971. It’s one of Turkmenistan’s main tourist attractions and is especially impressive at night. Tours typically include an overnight stay in desert yurts, although returning to Ashgabat the same night is possible.

What is Ashgabat like?
Ashgabat is known for its white marble buildings, gold monuments, and unusually empty streets. It holds multiple Guinness World Records for its architecture. The city has a surreal, futuristic atmosphere that feels unlike anywhere else in the world.

Is the internet available in Turkmenistan?
Internet is extremely limited, slow, and heavily censored. Social media and messaging apps are widely blocked. Most travelers rely on their guide’s hotspot, and even then, you’ll need a VPN that works in Turkmenistan (e.g., Streisand). Do not expect your regular mobile data plan or international SIM to work.

When is the best time to visit Turkmenistan?
The best seasons are spring (April–May) and fall (September–October) when temperatures are mild. Summers are extremely hot, especially in the desert, and winters can be very cold.

What currency is used in Turkmenistan?
The local currency is the Turkmenistan Manat (TMT). However, USD cash is widely used in tourism and strongly recommended, as ATMs are limited and unreliable.

Can I visit Turkmenistan’s Caspian Sea region?
Some regions, including parts of the Caspian coast, are currently restricted to tourists and can only be visited with special government approval—meaning most travelers cannot go.