A recent article dubbing this year’s “50 Best Beaches in the World” named Cala Mariolu as number two, and Cala Gororitze as number nineteen, and I just so happen to be living right next to them! So, I set off on a little excursion along the Baunei Coast, to go check it out, and decide if they’re worthy of the number two and nineteen spots, as well as being considered one of the best Sardinia beaches!
Just to preface; I have been to A LOT of beaches in the world, and last year I had specifically traveled to Italy upon hearing of the idyllic coves and Sardinia beaches around La Maddalena Islands, and the up and coming social media hotspot; Baunei Coast.
What I found was my personal heaven! An Italian Mediterranean island with more beautiful beaches per square mile than I’ve seen anywhere else in the world! Well, besides places like the Bahamas, and the Philippines of course.
Anyway, I also found love, and both of those reasons are why I’m still here in Sardinia! I’ve done five boat trips now, and the one I just did to Cala Mariolu and the other Baunei Coast gems has been my favorite.
Here’s all of the info you need to see two of the World’s most beautiful beaches this year!
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Where is Baunei Coast and Cala Mariolu?
The Baunei Coast is located on the east side of the island of Sardinia, which is part of Italy. However, most people from Sardinia consider themselves as “Sardo” or “Sardi” (plural) rather than Italian, and they even have their own dialect.
Cala Mariolu is located in the middle of the Baunei Coast, with additional beautiful coves and calas to the north and south of it.
How Do You Get to Baunei Coast?
To get to Baunei Coast, you will first need to fly into Sardinia. The two airports to aim for are either in Olbia or Cagliara. They are both around the same distance, so go with whichever is cheapest.
Either airport you decide to fly in from, will require a two or more hour drive to get to the area of Ogliastra, where Baunei Coast is. You should rent a car using DoYouItaly.com, and make sure you get an International Driver’s Permit before you arrive.
If you absolutely cannot drive, there is a public bus option, but it takes three to four times as long, and doesn’t offer much freedom to explore.
Where to Stay in This Area of Sardinia
I am of course biased since I live here right now, but I’ll list all of the town’s that are closest to the boat tour marinas.
Arbatax or Tortoli
This is the area I was living in that I loved. There’s a pretty little beach, plenty of great restaurants, and even a couple of beach bar/restaurants.
Arbatax is more of the port area, where some boat tours leave from, and Porto Frailis is the beach area. Tortoli the the main little town but it’s about a ten-fifteen minute drive to the beach (over an hour walking).
Santa Maria
I haven’t stayed overnight in Santa Maria, but I go there sometimes for aperotivo and it is really cute! It might be a bit pricier, but it’s beautiful, and close to the Santa Maria marina where more boat tours leave from, including the one I just did.
Baunei
There’s an actual town called Baunei, but it’s not near the beach, it’s nestled on the side of the mountain. It’s also very cute, but it would require a bit of a drive to get to the boat marinas.
If you’re going to be attempting the hikes to Cala Mariolu and the other calas, this might be a good place to base yourself from though! It’s closest to the starting points of the trails!
Cala Ganone
I haven’t stayed here either but I have heard of a few people who have! This is where the closest marina is to the main beaches of Baunei Coast, and they have some pretty good hotel options, some which are right on the beach!
Ways to Get to Cala Mariolu in Sardinia
The entire Baunei Coast in Sardinia is a protected area that is not allowed to be built on or constructed. That being said; there are no roads, and therefore, no easy way to see it. This is actually a really good thing though, because then the beaches would be even more crowded than they already get!
There’s really only two ways to get to Cala Mariolu; by boat and by hiking, so first here are your options for the boat:
Take a Boat Tour on a “Gabone”:
There are a lot of boat tour options, but it’s important to note the type of boat that is able to get you to the actual beach of Cala Mariolu. I took a tour on a larger speedboat (called a “gabone” in Italian) that fits up to twelve people, and includes the skipper and fuel, for about $85. Be careful when booking because some of the tours use smaller six person boats that do not have much room at all! Also these boat tours do not include food or drinks, so bring your own!
Here is the exact link to the tour I did: Cala Mariolu, Goloritze, and Biriala Boat Tour
Boat Tour on the Big Ship:
I don’t actually recommend this boat tour to Cala Mariolu, but if you don’t like smaller fast boats, you may need to take the big ship. These fit thirty or more people, which means the beach gets instantly crowded when you arrive. They do however provide food, drinks, and umbrellas for the beach.
Here is the tour for the Big Ship Baunei Tour!
Rent and Drive a Boat:
This seemed to be a popular option, however it also seemed to be a dangerous one. We watched several people struggle (much to our amusement) trying to get in and out of the channels to get to the beach. And then there’s also the problem where you have to anchor farther away from the beach, so one person has to stay on the boat or swim ashore. But if you have a group of people with one person willing to be the designated driver, this might be a fun group option!
Here’s an option for a 15 Foot Dinghy Rental for 6 People Starting at $215
Sailboats Tours:
Sailboat tours DO NOT typically take you to any beaches. They are too big to pull up to them, unless they have a little tender boat to take you. If you really want to do a sailboat, be sure to ask if they have the tender to go to the beaches. I’ve gone on one from Arbatax, and although it’s a beautiful ride, and you go to some small calas, I can now say it’s no where near as good as the speedboat tours that take you to the actual beaches!
Here is the Sailboat trip I did that leaves/returns from Arbatax: Sardinia Sailboat Tour of Baunei Coast.
How to Hike to Cala Mariolu:
Forewarning; the hike to Cala Mariolu is very very difficult! It takes a minimum of two hours each way, probably more, and involves climbing along cliffs and using a sketchy ladder.
To get to the starting point of the hike, type in “Sentiero Cala Mariolu” on google maps, and drive there. Another forewarning; the road getting there is pretty bumpy and rocky! Park at the starting point, and follow the map for the trail! I’d recommend downloading Maps.me and downloading the hike route ahead of time in case you lose service and get lost!
What to Bring to Cala Mariolu
It is important to note that most boat tours are around eight hours, and the hike is definitely an all day activity. So be sure to check if your tour includes food and drinks! If it doesn’t, definitely bring a sandwhich or something from the grocery store, and perhaps a bottle of wine!
Here’s my full list of things to bring to Cala Mariolu:
- Microfiber towel
- Snorkel gear
- Reef safe eco-friendly sunscreen (the water is very clear, please don’t pollute it!)
- Cooler bag
- Food and drinks
- Re-usable cup
- Portable battery and phone chord
- Dry bag
- GoPro or waterproof action camera
- Watershoes (the beaches are mostly pebbles)
- Cash (for tips, grotto entrance, and the kiosk snacks)
- A hat and sunnies
- Windbreaker (the ride back is chilly)
Other Stops on the Baunei Coast Boat Tour
Ok finally I can get to this very important section! Because Cala Mariolu is NOT the only beach on the Baunei Coast, and in fact, I could argue that some of the others are even more beautiful!
Here’s the other stops we made on the gabone boat tour of Baunei Coast:
- Cala Goloritze: We weren’t able to get onto the beach here because it has been blocked off to boats for protection, but you can swim near-ish to it if you have the stamina (or a floatie).Cala Goloritze is famous for the rock arch that makes an epic viewpoint from the beach. It is also the number nineteen out of the “50 Best Beaches in the World in 2024”.
- Cala Gabbiano: Also known as “Seagull cove”, this small cove had really pretty water, but only about one-third of the beach was open when I went due to recent rocks falling from the cliffs. Otherwise there’s normally a cave you can go to here!
- Cala Biriala: This was a beautiful beach as well, with a really nice less-crowded area in the far north corner. There’s also a small rock archway here, in case you didn’t get a photo of Cala Goloritze!
- Grotto di Fico: This is not a beach, it’s a massive cave with a fresh underwater cave system, which is pretty cool. It’s only accessible by boat, and it’s definitely a nice break to cool off from the sun!
Other Things to Do in this Area of Sardinia Italy
If you’re staying for a few days in the Baunei Coast area, the best things to do are beach hopping, hiking, and of course, visiting the winery that I live at during the summer!
You can find my full detailed list of things to do here: Summer in Sardinia Travel Guide
In short, these are my favorite things to do in this area:
- Porto Frailis Beach, and sushi at Aquachiara or aperitivo at La Bitta
- Wine Tasting at Cantine Gebelias (my fiance’s winery)
- Olive Oil Tasting at Pelau
- Cea Beach and lunch at Al Mari
- Artisian Gelato in Baunei
- Selveggio Blu hike (or at least part of it)
Bonus: Why This Area of Sardinia is a BLUE ZONE!
In case you didn’t already know, the region that Baunei Coast is in, is called Ogliastra (pronounced “oh-lee-ass-tra”), and it’s one of the world’s five Blue Zones! And if you don’t know what a Blue Zone is, it’s an area where there’s the largest number of people who live to one hundred!
Researchers have studied this area and its people, and they found that the reason why people live longer here is mostly due to moderate wine consumption, a healthy Mediterranean diet, strong social interactions, and regular exercise.
Did I mention I’m currently living at a winery here? Come visit and live longer! (Seriously though, shoot me a DM on Insta if you come to this area during summer!)
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xx, Alyssa
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